I admit it.
For the Chinese noob (not pointing any fingers…. at… uh… myself….), tapas dining is likely to become known as “Spanish yum cha” in your mind at first. But the difference is that tapas is more likely to be enjoyed at the tail end of the day, and if you’re doing it properly, you’ll be drinking sangria. And like the Chinese, the centuries-old Spanish dining tradition is a fantastic way to spend time with family and friends, and explore flavours together. I see so many parallels between Chinese food culture and some others that it really has to be pointed out. At the end of the day, we really are all the same.
Of all places in Australia, Dubbo is the last you’ll expect to find a really good tapas restaurant. But yet, here we are, standing out the front of 215b Macquarie Street, amused with the contrast of Two Doors’ classy entryway against its rather questionable surrounds. But who cares? I can smell spices.
Upon reading the history of the place, I am enlightened as to why this restaurant has made this building its home. After an inspiring trip overseas, Julie and Gerald Webster opened Two Doors in 2005, having fallen in love with Spanish flavours. They certainly picked a fantastic home for Two Doors. The 1873 building was originally the home of Dubbo’s first doctor; Dr Walter Hugh Tibbits. (If I was a doctor in 1873, I’d want my name to be Dr Walter Hugh Tibbits.) This building is made from local sandstone, brick and timber, and its 1973 renovation was done beautifully and respectfully. She’s an absolute beauty for an old house who is pushing 200 years.
Anyway… down the romantic alleyway we go, and despite rudely arriving 10 minutes before opening time (which I can’t help but still feel really bad about), we are warmly welcomed inside and seated by a lovely young waiter who is only too glad to give a quick crash course on tapas dining for the uninitiated. Most of the dishes are available in full or half serves, which means that diners wanting a table of shared dishes are happy, but so too are those who are less inclined to partake in a communal meal. Why you’d be that lacking in the spirit of adventure in a beautiful tapas restaurant I just don’t know. But I know there definitely are customers who are erked by the idea of sharing a dish with their companions, and the structure of the menu is a really good idea.
We start off with a Greek salad and some breads, which appear to be stonebaked and are served with roasted garlic cloves and goat’s cheese. The hot, damp ciabatta’s interior coupled with the heavenly crunch of the crust is gorgeous. Nothing too out-of-the-ordinary to report on the Greek salad, except that it’s fresh, and generous with the feta. I recommend ordering a salad to go with the rest of your tapas meal.
Second round of orders is a lightly-dusted squid with chilli lime salt. I know that one takes risks when ordering seafood this far inland, but my dining companion is rather gung-ho about these things, and seafood is such a large part of the Spanish diet that I’m bound to acquiesce eventually. As it turns out, the squid is lovely and tender, and the light dusting of batter is just as described. I’m not too sure about the chilli lime salt; it seems a bit superfluous. If one actually uses the salt upon the squid, it just turns out to be way too salty in addition to the natural saltiness of the squid. More wet, dippy condiments and a couple more slices of lime would probably do the dish more justice.
Next comes Two Doors’ signature dish; chorizo and fig, which
comes with a side of more hot crusty ciabatta for dipping into the rather moreish sauce. This is the best dish of the night; the chorizo initially taking the breath away with a surprising hit of vinegar to the nostrils upon opening the lid. It then immediately soothes with a lovely texture, and the pop of fig seeds adding a certain playfulness, which is then followed by a lovely lingering chilli heat. The more of this dish you eat, the hotter your mouth grows, and the more you want. This could get out of hand, actually. Down with more of their user-friendly, fruity sangria, and another dip of that obscenely good bread into the little pot’s reserves of hot, sticky, figgy sauce. Delicious.
We did have to wait quite a while to order our next course (and also to receive it), because a function in the next room appeared to distract the waiters and kitchen staff to a detrimental degree. Being an understanding cook and waiter myself, however, I’m inclined to give them a little grace. I’m not sure other diners would be quite so understanding.
Their chicken involuntini makes a nice little half-serve, and is filled with a bit of cranberry and soft cheese which is always a good reliable combo. The only criticism I make of these dishes is that while the cheese being used is of course “nice”, my heart would jump for joy if I could see on their menu (for example) that the goat’s cheese is from one of our amazing local producers. Same goes for the olives, and so on. I can eat Wattle Valley cheese anywhere in Australia. When in Dubbo, I want to taste what the Dubbo region has to offer.
But a great little family restaurant is a great little family restaurant, and Two Doors is certainly one of those. Five stars for effort and presentation from both floor staff and kitchen.
And for solid service and allegiance to local producers? Eh…. there’s a little way to go on that score.
But do still go and enjoy a night at Two Doors, because I certainly enjoyed myself and would go again. Great restaurants that bring international flavours to country New South Wales are precious, and should be supported to allow them to establish themselves, grow as entrepreneurs, and enjoy rewards for what is always initially a very courageous leap of faith in the food they yearn to share.
Two Doors Café and Restaurant
215b Macquarie Street, Dubbo
Ph: 02 6885 2333
Open for lunch and dinner
Licensed
Kids menu available
Prices: $7 – $32
Gow Gee Supper Club 